Consider a wrap around with no return. Under some circumstances, it may be possible to skip returns by having the molding wrap around a doorway and continue on into the next room.
This is not ideal for all homes, however, so only do this is it makes sense and looks nice. Part 4. Caulk gaps to create a smoother look. Once you've got all the molding installed, use caulk to fill any gaps at the corners and other gaps. Be aware, however, that if there are gaps between the molding and your baseboards, you may have simply placed your nails too far apart and adding an intermediate nail may help.
Use a nail crayon to cover the nails. Use a nail crayon, if you want to, to fill in the holes created when you countersunk the nails. Paint or stain your molding. With everything else done, all that remains is to stain or paint the molding however you want it to look. This is easiest when the baseboards are also unfinished, but if your baseboards are already stained you might want to stain the molding before installing it. Once your paint or stain is dry, you're all done!
Enjoy your new, professional-looking room! If you're okay with it and it looks tight and fine, then go ahead. But I would suggest you wood glue them together. The main reason straight or inline joints are typically mitered is that a nail is supposed to go through both pieces, so they don't deflect or even pull away from each other or the baseboard in the future. Not Helpful 3 Helpful 5. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.
If you currently have quarter round molding and you install shoe molding, it will not cover as much of your floor as quarter round. The newly exposed part of the floor may not match the rest of the floor. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. You need access to the entire perimeter of the room you are working on. Move as much furniture as possible to the center of the room so it does not interfere with your project.
Always wear eye protection when working with power tools and striking tools. You Might Also Like How to. How to. Expert Interview. More References 6. About This Article. Co-authored by:. Co-authors: Updated: November 24, Categories: Walls and Ceilings.
Article Summary X Before you install shoe molding, sand down your moldings and finish them with a few coats of varnish to match your floor. Italiano: Installare un Battiscopa. Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read , times. Made into a room for myself. The kids are grown and have never had a space to call my own. So I have purchased all I needed. Took a while and now doing the floors. This article was so well written and easy to understand.
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Belinda Brothers Nov 15, Kevin McDonald Apr 4, Rated this article:. Share yours! More success stories Hide success stories. Featured Articles How to. It is great at block stains and works well for heavy wear and tear areas. A lightweight molding is a good option if you are using construction glue and not using nails. Measuring and Cutting Shoe Molding to Fit With your measuring tape, measure the area that you will be installing the shoe molding.
Put the molding flat against the miter saw, making sure it is face up, and cut it to the measured length. You may need to sand the edges for smoother shoe molding. Dry fit the shoe molding and determine if it will fit correctly. Run a tack cloth down the length to remove sawdust. Apply the paint or stain, as desired. If you do choose to stain your moldings, make sure to choose a stain-grade hardwood base-shoe or quarter-round molding, preferably the same species of wood as your baseboards or floors.
Pine or other softwoods are good for painting but do not take stains very well. Once the stain has dried, apply a top-coat varnish, following the manufacturer's directions. Let the finish dry completely before proceeding to installation. Instead of trying to measure, mark, and cut all pieces before nailing, it will be easier to avoid mistakes by measuring, cutting, and installing the trim one piece at a time. If you are beginning with a piece that will fit an outside corner, such as around a post or wall arch, you can position the piece of molding across the wall and mark the ends of the molding with a pencil at the wall intersection.
If you are installing base shoe molding, make sure that the long edge of the molding is upright against the wall. Make a light angle mark to show the general direction the miter cut will make—it does not need to be precise.
The purpose of the mark is simply a reminder to yourself of the general direction of the degree cut. If you are beginning with a piece of molding that will fit inside corners, measure the full length of the wall and mark a long piece of molding to these dimensions. It's fine to cut pieces a little bit long if you're using a power miter saw , which can shave off a tiny amount of wood cleanly.
If you're using a handsaw and miter box , it's best to get the length right on the first cut because fine adjustments are difficult. Set the handsaw or miter saw blade to 45 degrees. Position the trim piece on the miter box or saw base so the blade just touches the pencil mark.
Make sure the blade is to the outside edge of the pencil mark, preserving the mark. It is very easy to cut too short if you cut through the mark itself. Make the first cut. Reverse the saw to 45 degrees in the opposite direction, then cut the other end of the trim at an opposite degree angle.
Position the first cut piece of trim in its wall position and check its length. If it is slightly too long, you can take a thin kerf-cut slice off one end of the molding to make it fit exactly.
Do not fasten the first piece yet as it needs to be movable until you cut the second piece. Measure, mark, and cut the second piece of trim. Make sure to cut the angle correctly so the piece will correctly meet the miter angle of the first piece. Set this second piece of trim on the floor and check its length, as well as the fit with the first piece. Skilled carpenters, when faced with corners that are slightly out of square, are able to adjust the angles of the miter cuts to make the trim pieces fit exactly.
For example, if an outside corner is 94 degrees rather than 90 degrees, making the trim miters at 47 degrees will create a perfect fit. Do-it-yourselfers, too, can experiment with different angles by using waste trim for a perfect fit. Position each piece of trim and fasten it with a brad nailer or by hand-nailing with a hammer and nail set.
The preferred tool for nailing shoe molding or quarter-round is an electric finish or brad nailer. This tool will automatically set or recess small finish nails, and can greatly speed up your work. To use a nailer, first calibrate the depth of the nailer, using a piece of waste trim on another waste board. With the depth perfect, drive the finish nails or brads about every 18 inches.
Hold the nailer close to horizontal, but angled slightly downward. Hold the trim tight against the floor and baseboard as you fire the nailer. If you hand-nail, drive each nail almost flush with the wood surface, then tap it in just below the surface with a set and the hammer. Continue measuring, cutting, and nailing trim pieces around the room, one piece at a time. A return is a small piece of molding that neatly finishes off the end of a piece of quarter-round or shoe molding where it ends without turning another corner.
It is not necessary to cut a return, but it is an extra finishing touch that makes your work look more professional since it hides the end grain that would be exposed if you cut the trim off straight on the end.
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