Today, saws are sharpened only rarely and by few woodworkers, but the question still tends to arise of how to do it. Like so much of the handyman's knowledge, sharpening is becoming a forgotten craft.
To be able to sharpen one's own most vital saw, and to know that one is not simply relying on buying replacements, brings about a real gain in skill and self-confidence to any woodworker. Today's mass produced, plastic handled and Teflon-coated disposable saws are a poor comparison to the quality saw of old; they never inspire any loyalty, for they are designed to be simply thrown away as soon as they get blunt.
Basically, any saw that has not got special hardened teeth can be sharpened. Saws with hardened teeth - which means the majority of saws sold today - cannot be sharpened in the normal sense of the word.
Hardened teeth have exactly the same hardness as the sawfile, which thus can have no effect on them, so you only can use diamond files! Many manufacturers only harden the tips of the teeth, which has the advantage that they later break off less easily, but the disadvantage that once the topmost layer has been worn away the soft metal below is exposed.
You need only a few tools: a flat file, a saw vise or alternatively two boards with clamps, a saw file and a saw set. Getting saws back into shape for sawing involves four successive processes - trimming, shaping , setting and sharpening the teeth, in that order.
Depending on the state the teeth are in, you can start at stage 4 or have to begin at the beginning. Repeated sharpening will alter the shape and height of the teeth. The row of the teeth, which originally stood as a neat rank becomes ragged, the teeth that have been shortened are not up to the mark and are no longer doing any of the sawing - the cutting performance tails off.
I am very grateful! Fred, you missed the main reason this article was published. To help others-perhaps eventually, even one of your employees. Hi Jesper, Nice article.
I have two different protractors, a starrett, and I forgot the name of the other one. Both have two scales, one shows the actual angle, the other shows the miter saw angle.
I use it mainly to check corners when running base and crown to see how far off the corner actually is. I never think of rafter angles and miter settings in the same sense. Mike Hawkins. It was like what Dan said above, a light went on! This is the basis for my trim carpentry business. I actually use a shortcut to get my settings. Hmmm…no one mentions coped corners, which will forgive several degrees out of square. Where it really gets interesting is those very acute angles at the ceiling where you have to run large, often multiple piece crown and coping is not an option.
I found years ago to get in the habit of setting the saw a tad over 45 for these and it usually worked out well. But Norm, those are great suggestions for future articles! Which one s do you want to do? I am a little confused.
An inside corner of 86 degrees bisected should be 43 by my arithmetic. This debate has been going on for years, and why I was interested in a Festool Kapex, as overpriced as it is. The protractor, or angle finder, that comes with the machine, is essentially a tramel that moves the center leg in direct proportion to the outside legs, and will bisect most angles I run into; abtuse or acute.
Take the angle off the walls, put the tramel against the fence, line up the laser and cut. As a basic article I think it is more important to teach the proper methods, not add crutches. Some miter gauges run from 0 and some from 90, know the difference and how to deal with it. Incra or someone needs to offer aftermarket vernier protractors for some of these compound miter saws. They would save a lot of trial and error. I am not a contractor, just a semi handy homeowner who enjoys learning new carpentry techniques.
I appreciate this sites comprehensive and inclusive wood working information! There are articles here that at this point are far too advanced for me, but I enjoy them and take from them what I can.
Everyone learns new tasks in a variety of ways and this explanation was helpful for me. Thanks and keep up the good work. I do use the Starrett and would be lost without it. Now I get it! I never could understand on my mitre saw how a 90degree cut registered 0. On the job site today we all had an awakening when we took the time with the saw and what you described.
Great article. But once they understand it the tricky angles become a lot easier to work with. Jesper, thanks for a good article.
I am a retired engineer and understand complementary angles and such but an article that puts it into simple perspective is a great help. Often people do things by rote without understanding what is actually happening. I am making jigs for my RAS to cut 45 and Jesper,I was looking for an easy way to learn how to miter the baseboards for our basement.
I think I need a class! Thank you for the info tho :. Thanks for this Jesper. I just bought my first miter saw to do some crown molding. After my first two cuts, I realized what had happened. Oh well… DIYers have to learn somehow. Great combination of old school tools; the only downside is you have to know how to sharpen a handsaw, and keep your plane iron sharp as well.
Result is tight and accurate miters. The box is incredibly accurate, and by using the angle divider to transfer the measurements you eliminate calculation error. Great tool. This information is great for the weekender…. I have the tools to do the honey do list, and get to make plenty of saw dust…. I am getting ready to install crown in a kitchen with a corner cabinet and have always just had to keep back cutting the cope to get it to fit.
Is there an easier way? Wisdom is in the basics. The A-ha moment has come to me by falling back to basics to figure something out. If anybody becomes too sophisticated for the basics their work probably sux. Too high, and you might feel uncomfortable handling it. While these differences may seem relatively small, they are surprisingly more intense than many people might expect.
These suppressing elements help to stop the saw from shaking you too excessively. I also suggest looking for a saw with an easy-blade swapping mechanism.
In this way, you can more easily get the high-quality cutting experience that you want and minimize your overall work time on your projects. A great reciprocating saw is a powerful tool that can be used for many jobs. I love taking this tool with me to just about every job I do and bust it out for many at-home renovation steps. I also love my reciprocating saw for its ease of blade swapping, the simplicity of its overall design, and its relatively inexpensive cost.
However, there are a few things to consider before you buy one. Simply put, I have to find different tools to handle a few tasks that this tool is just not suitable to perform. Just a few downsides of this tool include how it:. Do these cons automatically lose the reciprocating saw vs. Not quite. They just indicate the limitations of this tool.
The angle grinder will also have some downsides that must be considered before using it. Otherwise known as a disc or side grinder, an angle grinder has a similar overall shape, size, and weight to a reciprocating saw. Like that tool, it has its main work surface at the end. You also have to use two hands to hold and use the tool.
And it is often used for destruction and demolition, that it can also be used for more generalized construction purposes. You hold the handle with your strong hand and guide it with your weak hand, just like with a reciprocating saw. The cutting blade is strong enough for metal, masonry, and most wood. An angle grinder has a capacity of 5, to 10, revolutions per minute. It works very well for truing up table saw blades to the table.
The magnetized base hangs onto the blade. Just zero out the gauge on the table, then hang the gauge on the blade, and dial in exactly the angle you want to cut. It can be any angle, not just 90 or 45 degrees. So, if you want to make a pentagon, hexagon or octagon sided box, you are covered. You can use this quick tool on bandsaws, drill passes, table saws, miter saws, and even on scroll saws.
It takes a couple seconds to settle into reading. So, you may be a little disappointed as it takes a few second to finalize. It is a tool which is easy to use as well as easy to read. You can use this tool in carpentry, woodworking and even in-home improvement. It is multifunction tool. It could both measure angle and length, metric and imperial scale. You can also use it in sketching and drawing. It has a clear button. This is really useful for subtracting or working back from an angle.
You can hold it to some existing angles and click reset to zero, then you can subtract or add from the existing angles by using the reset button. Battery durability is another big question. So, if you are searching for the best digital angle block rather than the protractor styling of GemRed is a good one. The device is easy to calibrate. It is easy to set the zero and manipulate while pieces together by hand.
It is easy to read in the sun outside as well as inside. You can tighten the center screw to hole a position. This is helpful for preventing it from moving when using it for drawing and holding an angle. When it is tightened, it stays tight. This tool will allow you to measure full degrees. The hinge mechanism on the angle rule allows a full degrees measure inside outside and reverse angles.
The tool is easy to use. The lock and reverse angle function have made all types of work easy and fast. You can lock your reading at any point and can go back if you want. It has a center screw to hole a position. So, it is possible to lose your angle setting if you set it down more for more than a minute or two without writing it down.
So, be careful. The device is a combination of a relative angle finder, a digital protractor , and a bevel gauge which have made it unique. You can measure the whole degrees of relative angle. The hold button is a great feature as you can take a measurement of degree of angle from something while can not see the face of the protractor. The super large LCD display is big enough to fit big digits to give you more clear reading.
The display provides you a high degree of accuracy with a satisfactory resolution. It will allow you to zero it at any angle and then measure angles relative to that zero. It is something you can use every time you check square in your table saw, band saw, chop saw and even in jointer. Its versatility incorporates the usages of both of a T bevel and an angle finder.
In a darker area, you may need a light to read it.
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